(Greek Spinach Pies) Buttery, crispy/flaky and addictive, these require a little practice to get right but are worth the effort. And once you get the hang of it, it goes pretty quickly. If this is your first time working with filo (or phyllo if you’re from uptown), start with double the number of sheets listed below in case you run into problems. In...
Read MorePan Broiled Shrimp in the Shell
Leaving shrimp in the shell is not a lazy person’s out. You still have to clean (i.e. devein) them before you cook them. I’m sure some people would be happy not cleaning them and just pulling or wiping out the vein as you eat them, as is done in most peel-your-own places. But that skievs me out a little. And I don’t get skieved out...
Read MoreAsparagus with Orange and Pine Nut Dressing
Makes 6 servings Spring hasn’t quite sprung, the grass is barely riz. But spring is definitely on the way and I’m ready. The orange pith (the white part between the orange zest and pulp) gives a slightly bitter edge to this delicious sauce that is as fresh as the asparagus itself. It makes a beautiful first course or a side dish for grilled or...
Read MoreMeatloaf Bánh Mì
Two traditional sources of the Great Sandwich are a near-empty refrigerator and overlapping cultures. The bánh mÌ falls into the second category, a byproduct of the French occupation of Indochina. In retrospect it makes great sense (the sandwich, not so much the occupation). Two great French staples—crispy baguettes and slices of rich pate—are balanced...
Read MoreFoolproof Creamy Polenta
I guess if I were to keep it current, I would call this “No-Fail Polenta.” But using verbs as nouns and vice versa (“I was tasked with making no-fail polenta,” e.g.) annoys me. And being annoyed is the opposite of what cooking is all about. So Foolproof Polenta it is. Polenta, like risotto and soufflés, has an unearned reputation for being finicky. Polenta...
Read MoreThe World Can Be Your Oyster
Shucking oysters isn’t the easiest task in the kitchen, but it most certainly is one where practice makes perfect. Start by scrubbing the oyster shells thoroughly with a stiff brush under cold running water. While they are draining in a colander, set up your shucking station and pour enough very coarse salt over the bottom of a platter to form a thick...
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