Hell of a title, no? Wanted to make sure I got it all in there. These started their lives as a bread pudding version of flan—with plain caramel poured into the cups and the pudding mix spooned in over that. After baking, the caramel stuck to the cup; it didn’t flow nicely over the puddings and onto the plate like it does with flan. Then I thought of making...
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Bouillabaisse is one of those things—like barbecue, cassoulet or cioppino—that people will never agree on. I think that’s a good thing. I wouldn’t want to live in a world where every bouillabaisse tastes the same. On a drive along the French Riviera several years ago, I tasted bouillabaisse in restaurants that ranged from total dives and family restaurants...
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Two traditional sources of the Great Sandwich are a near-empty refrigerator and overlapping cultures. The bánh mÌ falls into the second category, a byproduct of the French occupation of Indochina. In retrospect it makes great sense (the sandwich, not so much the occupation). Two great French staples—crispy baguettes and slices of rich pate—are balanced...
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I guess if I were to keep it current, I would call this “No-Fail Polenta.” But using verbs as nouns and vice versa (“I was tasked with making no-fail polenta,” e.g.) annoys me. And being annoyed is the opposite of what cooking is all about. So Foolproof Polenta it is. Polenta, like risotto and soufflés, has an unearned reputation for being finicky. Polenta...
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Mushrooms of one kind or another are always on my shopping list and sautéeing them is almost always on my Prep Day list. With sautéed mushrooms in the fridge I am halfway to a mushroom-spinach omelet or a grilled cheese and mushroom sandwich—two dinner-in-a-pinch ideas no one is ever disappointed to see. Makes about 2 cups 2 tablespoons unsalted butter,...
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